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Xunantunich Belize

Xunantunich (Cayo District — 80 miles west of Belize City) — Set on a leveled hilltop, Xunantunich (pronounced shoo-nahn-too-neech), is one of Belize’s most easily accessible and impressive Maya archaeological sites. To reach the ruins, take the free, hand-cranked ferry across the Mopan River. From the ferry, which comes and goes on demand, it’s about 1 mile uphill to the parking lot and ticket office. It’s a semi-strenuous walk with great opportunities for sighting birds and butterflies. At the end, your reward is a complex of temples and plazas that date back to the 7th century.

Xunantunich may have been occupied as early as 1000 BC but it was little more than a village. As mentioned, the large architecture that is seen today began to be built in the 7th century AD. From AD 700 to 850, Xunantunich was possibly politically aligned with Naranjo, 9 miles west in Guatemala. Together, they controlled the western part of the Belize River valley, although the population probably never exceeded 10,000. Xunantunich partially survived the initial Classic Maya collapse of about AD 850 (when nearby Cahal Pech was abandoned), but was deserted by about AD 1000. A good visitors center, located between the ticket office and the hilltop ruins, explains this history.

The site centers on Plazas A-2 and A-1, separated by Structure A-1. Just north of Plaza A-2, Structure A-11 and Plaza A-3 formed a residential ‘palace’ area for the ruling family. The dominant El Castillo (Structure A-6) rises 130ft high at the south end of Plaza A-1. El Castillo may have been the ruling family’s ancestral shrine, where they were buried and/or represented in sculpted friezes. Structures A-1 and A-13, at either end of Plaza A-2, were not built until the 9th century and would have had the effect of separating the ruling family from the rest of the population, possibly a response to the pressures that came with the decline of Classic Maya civilization at that time.

You can climb to the top of El Castillo to enjoy a spectacular 360-degree view. Its upper levels were constructed in two distinct phases. The first, built around 800, included an elaborate plaster frieze encircling the building; the second, built around 900, covered over most of the first and its frieze. The frieze on the east end of the building and part of the western one have been uncovered by archaeologists; these depict a series of Maya deities, with Chaac, the rain god, probably the central figure at the east end. The friezes

Swing Bridge Belize

Swing Bridge (downtown Belize City) – what better way to stress the country’s “back water” image among some tourists than this swing bridge that was built in the 1920s? This bridge, which replaced several wooden bridges that were built during the 19th century, connects Belize City’s north side with its south side, spanning over the Belize River. It is the oldest swing bridge and one of the few manually-operated swing bridges anywhere in the world.

One piece of note-worthy trivia associated with this sight: this bridge was featured in the 1980 Christopher Walken mercenary film “The Dogs of War”. The bridge was part of a scene involving the fictitious African country of Zangaro, which Walken’s character and other mercenaries stormed toward the end of the film.

St. John’s Cathedral Belize

St. John’s Cathedral (Albert Street, Belize City) — Immediately inland of Government House stands St John’s Cathedral, the oldest Anglican church in Central America. It was built by slave labor between 1812 and 1820 using bricks brought from Britain as ballast. Notable things to see inside are the ancient pipe organ and the Baymen-era tombstones that tell their own history of Belize’s early days and the toll taken on the city’s early settlers.

A block southwest is Yarborough Cemetery, where you’ll see the graves of less prominent early citizens – an even more turbulent narrative of Belize, which dates back to 1787.

Museum of Belize

Museum of Belize (Gabourel Lane, Belize City) — This modern museum in the Fort George district provides an excellent overview of the story of Belize. Housed in the country’s former main jail (built of brick in 1857), the museum preserves one cell in its original state, complete with inmates’ graffiti; if you thought your hotel room was cramped, think again! Fascinating historical photos and documents bear testimony to the colonial and independence eras, and the destruction wrought by hurricanes.

The Maya Treasures section, upstairs, is rather light on artifacts (most of Belize’s finest Maya finds were spirited away to other countries) but there are some impressive examples of Maya jade, as well as some ceramics and sculpture. You’ll also find plenty of informative models and explanations of the major Maya sites around the country. Other sections of the museum are devoted to Belize’s highly colorful postage stamps, and its insect life, with full detail on the disgusting manner in which the human botfly uses living human flesh to nourish its larvae. The museum also has a good little gift shop.

Maritime Museum Belize

Maritime Museum (North Front Street, Marine Terminal, Belize City) – located along the Swing Bridge, the Maritime Museum is housed within a former fire house. The museum exists to educate visitors on Belize’s seafaring & shipbuilding past through a variety of old documents, model boars, paintings and other displays.